Vlad's rides thread

[Gareth]

That battery was kill able, just not in the normal way...

[vlad01]

some updates on the engine.

Finally started to put it together.

Keeping tabs on the rings and wd-40 them to prevent rust while I build.

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Bought 4L of mineral terps and a squeezey bottle to wash out the block in case there was any dust and crap.

hosed it through the galleries and blew out with the air gun just to be sure. Fist bearing installed.

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bearings all installed and coated in assembly lube.

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No. 4 cap has channels for the sealant, a syringe makes easy work. Before the cap goes on you must also smear a light coat of sealant on the mating surfaces near the rear oil seal area and also the locating faces either side at the bottom of the cap.

I used permatex ultra black maximum oil resistance sealant.

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Checked the end float with the magnetic stand and dial gauge. Its pretty good, on the lower end of the range. something around 0.12mm, min is 0.08 to max of 0.28mm

Bit hard to check as the assembly lube is thick as and takes time to ooze out for the readings. As I slowly nipped down No.2 cap I banged the crank end to end to unsure the bottom shell and cap located completely parallel to the thrust face and relative to each other. Worked a treat! Looking at the shells down through the gap I could see they were dead parallel to each other.

So at this point all the caps got about 38Nm +45º angle. each marked as they were completed.

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So finally I got the heater warming up the block to unsure the sealant cures. Below a certain temp RTV sealant goes funny and then wont ever cure properly.

Necessary tin foil

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So it all turns real smooth next is the oil gallery welsh plugs.

Tomorrow I will pick up some run in oil and start doing the bores and piston/rod assemblies and then the bottom end is complete.

[psyolent]

love your attention to detail. syringe idea top idea too.

[vlad01]

Cheers!

Got the plugs in.

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You see that I set them in slightly lower than the surface, this is so it doesn't interfere with the cam thrust plate.

I also re-peened the factory spots, exactly like they were to help prevent them popping out. I highly doubt it as these plugs wall thickness was at least 50% more than the old ones and were super tight fit. Needed quite the force to bang them in.

I also used a bit of loctite retaining compound too.

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Trust plate vs plugs and peening locations.

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[vlad01]

got the first real drive on the new VP with the old greenfoam memcal. Economy is shit loads better. literally uses half if not even less than before. but its down on power. Gutless as lol. Same problem as was in the vacationer with this tune. I think its got to much timing and knock retard is happening pulling the timing out. Also it was done with extractors in mind not the stock manifolds so there will be a big difference in timing requirements.

But I will leave it in there for now as the fuel savings are huge and I cant be bothered with retuning it all again just to be replaced with the new engine anyway.

[Dylan]

Worth burning one with knock sensor off?

[Holden202T]

or max retard reduced.

[vlad01]

I could do that.

Anyway, clive at clive cams is on to making my cam.

So I should see it in a week.

[vlad01]

Got the 1st piston in last night but hit a snag. Don't have a 7/16th socket in 1/2 drive for the torque wrench.

So I got an adapter on the way home. So hopefully tonight I can have a few more installed and torqued up.

[vlad01]

2 pistons in.

Geez those ring compressors are a pita lol. Top ring would always get stuck before the bore.

I found you have to compress it more as each set of ring went past. I guess its coz the pistons is tapered smaller towards the top.

I have to say, with the ARP bolts they feel really strong, I mean 55ft-lb on those tiny bolts is crazy and it feels like they want it. I can see this will be bullet proof. No way those things will be coming off in a hurry.

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The deck height is almost 0, probably only few thou. Will be a very good squish area