immortality wrote:No, no bench setup unfortunately and not really sure what I need to do so. Never played with flash PCM's.
I've done two of them years ago and only to remove vats but the worry me as they can be bricked.
You were out south right?
If I grabbed it to try would I be able to use your aldl lead aswell? Just to remove vats as I think that will stop a start if not linked.
Could have it back to you tomorrow night along with a box of beers.
Biggvl wrote:I'd concentrate on why the engine won't crank.. Bypassing the relay should make it crank reguardless of where the key is, you could bypass the park/neutral switch on the trans (should be purple wires), me thinks this is the root of your cranking issue
P.S if you are going to bypass the park switch, please make sure the car isn't in gear, the park brake is on and you aren't under it...
The thing that concerns me though is even bypassing the relay and inhibitor all together and jumping the main harnesses 12v on the starter motor alone across to the other terminal (starter solenoid) iT won't turn the starter at all. All it does is seem to power the loom backwards as if the acc was on and starts running the pump again but no reds on dash.
Here is the wiring diagram for the starter circuit.
04a.pdf
Did you check all the fusible links as well?
Can you hear the starter click when you jump 12 volts directly onto the starter solenoid? Does the motor turn over by hand ok? What position did you have the key when you did this?
edit: I have a spare ecotec starter motor here, well used but working fine when it was removed.
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Ok so I have been playing around with this thing for last few hours. I took the starter motor off to check if it was actually working. As I unbolted it it dropped on the rack causing one hell of a spark!!
When on the ground and jumper leads earthed from starter body to ve- and positive from bat Bridged to solonoid it works fine.
But doing test in car it wasn't.
I then quadruple checked all my wiring loom. And remembered that one earth lead didn't bolt back to original place on block due to the eye on the negative terminal being too small for the bolt that is used to earth to the block. (Vs block must have a bigger bolt then the vx?)
So I had bolted that earth down to the bolt that goes through the bracket for the front sway bar
I found some more wire that had a larger eye and added it to that neg wire and back to block.
Boom started wound over.
I looked at the old loom to find that it only has ONE neg wire from battery post to chassis. (In used to v8s which run like 3 to numerous places)
Apparently the subframe cannot produce a good enough earth
I noticed the small x in the corner of my triple window display had gone too.
Everything seems to function ok ( though motor definatly doesn't sound like it's done the km the wrecker said)
So all this drama was due to a earth, which was earthed but not in a good spot!
Now I'll be running a few more earths from the neg post to chassis!
Thanks so much for everybody's help in diagnosing this problem.
And immortality I'll probably still take you up on your offer to borrow your lead so I can set my fan on temps lower but that won't be until I have sorted getting this thing running properly again.
The engine is rubber mounted so the earth has to go to the block not subframe,the vx should go to a small hole just behind the ps pump. Glad you sorted it.
