Beading/bead rolling tool/s for steel lines.

[immortality]

Not sure on the fittings. I know I had to drill those out on my brother's VR 5l ute's new rad and tap them to some pipe thread internally, then screw in normal brass either 1/4 or 1/8 fitting so I could use hose clamps. Couldn't find anything in the shops to fit the flared fittings on the rad to be able to adapt them. The rad was suppose to fit VN-VS 5l, but must have been only for those flare pipes you are talking about.

I think I might head down to one of my local engineering shops with a sample and see what they come up with.

[vlad01]

Wade might be right, from memory of what it looks like and having only first hand dealt with AN fittings last year, it could be AN compatible?

Speaking of which, there are AN to hard line fittings that use those olives, but then looking at the combos I would need an adapter to go back to barb and hose clamp, so very stupid if I can just bead the line instead.

[immortality]

I'm fairly sure I tried a AN fitting on it and it didn't fit. That would have been to easy.

[hjtrbo]

I also have used them, found they don't like the steel tube. Worked great for Alloy & Copper, but that's not what I bought them for really. Was trying to use them on steel line tubing.
Have been told to not use steel for fuel line, but what other options are there?

https://www.proflow.com.au/aluminium-fu ... -25ft-coil

[vlad01]

I'm avoiding alloy line due to how far sections have to hang unsupported, not just that but also they need to support the hose too. Alloy would fail very quickly as alloy has poor and finite fatigue life, steel is theoretically infinite as long as it's not flexing into the plastic range. Probably should have mentioned that in the OP and why I wanted to use steel line specifically. But yeah I looked at that idea and quickly saw alloy would be bad idea.

[vlad01]

In terms of what works on steel, this kit is what I found and would love to get but way out of my price range for the foreseeable future. Fuel lines should be steel in my opinion, bundy? tube is usually coated in some soft metal tin alloy? or gal, both inside and out. Bungy tube is meant for these applications. Eventually they can rust but takes decades in most cases, but for the same reason alloy is way worse, the corrosion from alloy is not only larger in volume due to chemistry reason, but also highly abrasive and more hydroscopic than iron rust which all accelerates the process. Alloy has this bad effect that when corroding in a wet or submerged environment that doesn't allow self passivation (reason why alloy is corrosion resistant in air) and then alloy becomes more like alkali metals in water in terms of reactivity and goes to shit pretty quick. Examples are carbys where water and/or alcohol in the petrol have turned them to the surface of the moon in short order.

Stainless might be the best option for durability for fuel lines, but very hard to roll and bend, but not impossible, this kit doesn't say SS, but I have seen listing for the same type of kit claiming so, might be mentioned in the video iirc?

https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AP145

[immortality]

So you are saying alloy tube is no good for the cooling system?

[vlad01]

No, I mean fuel that might have contamination or alcohol based going by the question, cooling systems have corrosion inhibitors if you are meaning like for radiators with water and such coolants.

[brindo]

Why not run a compression fitting? If you use a stainless fitting can cut n shut and join with silver solder to whatever you want then.

[immortality]

No, I mean fuel that might have contamination or alcohol based going by the question, cooling systems have corrosion inhibitors if you are meaning like for radiators with water and such coolants.

Well you hope there corrosion inhibitors.