Beading/bead rolling tool/s for steel lines.

[vlad01]

Has anyone use one of these tools before, and more spesifically on a steel line and not the copper/aluminium only that is recommended?

I am hoping that with gradual adjustment that one could use and get a satisfactory result on a small number of steel line ends.


I am wanting to make a copy of the front section of the metal lines for the auto cooler seen in VN-VR but in 3/8" and ending at around the engine mount and routed for the PS rack and pump instead, basically hard lines for a PS cooler utilising the front mount cooler hardware already installed. I was going to do exactly that in repurposing the old auto lines, but I realized that the trans is 5/16 and the PS return is 3/8 and ideally needs to stay the larger size so not to add back pressure to the return which would already see some from the addition of a cooler, so not wanting to compound that further.

Or if someone local enough I can borrow from a beading tool and/or associated hard line tools when I get this this particular mod, that would be awesome!

beadtool.jpg (3.98 KiB) Viewed 7234 times

[Wade]

Not on lines specifically but I’ve used one of those cheap aluminium intercooler bead rollers on steel. Got the job done but definitely not looking forward to doing it again. Give it a go if the tool is cheap enough or maybe try pertec or what over there called.

[vlad01]

There are some nice ones you can get from the US that do a number of sizes, but they cost anywhere from 280 to about 500 USD, not something I can afford atm, certainly not for a small one off job like this. But keen to look into getting one day in the future so I can redo the fuel/vapor lines on the under body. Those fancy kits form the same sort of bead style the factory lines have, except they don't do the stop bead further back that is used to limit how far the hose can be inserted over. But the one at the tip looks the same or similar shape which is really nice!

I suppose I could get one of these cheap ones and see if it works for now.

[Wade]

Yeah I think unfortunately it’s one of those things when you get what you pay for unfortunately. It’s definitely hard to justify expensive tools that you’ll hardly use

[Wade]

If you do get it and it works, plz let me know cheers

[immortality]

I've only used em on alloy and copper. I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work with a mild steel bundy tube, add a little oil and take your time, use something to hold the line steady in a vice like a brake line flaring tool.

[immortality]

Whilst on the subject of trans cooler and PS lines, on the later models ( late VS onward) Holden used flare fittings on all trans cooler lines which is great as it makes for easy instal/removal. Does anyone know exactly what fittings they are as I want to modify some lines so will need to purchase new/additional fittings?

[Wade]

Not sure. I remember they use to sell AN fittings and swap the hard lines out for braid.

[vlad01]

Not sure on the fittings. I know I had to drill those out on my brother's VR 5l ute's new rad and tap them to some pipe thread internally, then screw in normal brass either 1/4 or 1/8 fitting so I could use hose clamps. Couldn't find anything in the shops to fit the flared fittings on the rad to be able to adapt them. The rad was suppose to fit VN-VS 5l, but must have been only for those flare pipes you are talking about.

[OZ38]

I also have used them, found they don't like the steel tube. Worked great for Alloy & Copper, but that's not what I bought them for really. Was trying to use them on steel line tubing.
Have been told to not use steel for fuel line, but what other options are there?