pcmhacking.net

yeah, good looking out. I don't build much anymore. I think the 510 is the dark red thick stuff and the 518 is more pinkish and thinner, not near as good to my liking. It's been a couple days

Shoot, we should have a short thread for tips like this. Some of the trick crap we use would help future people. I think I still have some badass cummins goo for things

Rope seals are great when done right ... Always rotate them 1/4 of an inch, never match them to the block/cap split, always make the rope a tiny bit longer then the circumference so the ends smash together a bit.

No goo required!

i've never offset the rope seals and never had an issue, but i know the neoprenes its mandatory!

Lucky man ... I have seen more then one exploded motor because the cap sat on the rope.

so the cowl vent on this car was not able to work with the original mechanical mechanism because someone cut into the firewall about 6 inches!

i wanted to have it work as it will be a good source of fresh air when the car has fixed poly carb windows etc.

i found these linear actuators that are well priced and work perfectly

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNr5nanuXRg[/youtube]

So things are slowly progressing with the wiring, its almost complete under the dash, just needs a bit of tidy up once all the wires are in.

The poly carbonate is moving along also, got all the windows cut out now (aside from some trimming to fit properly) and actually completed one door with all the mounting tabs.
After taking this photo i actually pulled everything out of the door, and welded up all the holes in it from chrome strips etc and after a quick hit with the grinder on the welds it should be close to being ready to do some primering.

So as you all know my engine has a fairly large duration cam in it, which provides next to no vacuum at idle, so i got myself a vacuum pump off a holden cruze to put on the brake booster to 1. take an air leak off the engine, and 2. allow me to have much more brake assistance than it would get from the engine.

So i started looking at adjustable pressure switches and to be honest there is not alot out there unless you want to pay $80+ and even then they still dont have alot of scope for the range they work in etc ..... so i thought, why not get an arduino, connect a map sensor to it, and then use it to drive a relay based on map readings.

This basic board quickly got out of hand .....
it now has an on board map sensor, and screw terminals to add an external one if you prefer, it has a MAT sensor input and an input for a button/switch, and there is also two high current outputs that can be used to drive the ground side of an injector and a boost solenoid .....
all up it costs about $50 to make including an arduino and the box

This video shows the map readings, so you can see they gradually bleed down, i then pressed the brake pedal and then that activated the pump.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE_2zMqujT0[/youtube]

At this stage its got very basic code in it to read all the sensors and run my pump, but with the right arduino coding skills it should be able to do a whole lot more .... and my main goal with adding the extra stuff was for people wanting to have boost control, or use it for a water/meth injection etc....

This is exactly what I have been looking for. My next engine will also have next to no vacuum and I have been looking for pump controllers with no luck, only mechanical pressure switches.

i've got a few spare pcb's if you want one!

I was thinking if it had an OEM style connector for better reliability it would make a good product to sell.

The external map option would be perfect for those booster or check valves that already have a sensor. That way the reading will be what's actually in the booster rather than what's after the check valve.

Something like this.

yeah your probably right, i just made it work with that i had on hand at the time.

as far as selling them goes, im happy to supply BOM and a PCB but i dont really have the time to make them!