First RT Tuning Experience - OSE 12P BCLF based Camaro

[redcamaro]

Is there a list of all the OSE $12P variables somewhere? There are some with names like MALF, RDSC and "delta" that I'm tending to avoid because I don't know what they do.

And further to the1's post, try the FAQ for other common terms .. https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
Google delta, its a common mathematics term. Malf = malfunction

You need a knock filter that suits your engine bore size and a knock sensor. Lots of info on knock sensors and filters on the forums and interwebs, the knock filter is the problem on modified engines that use a non-factory bore size.

Knock Count Logging is Enabled, but I think I read somewhere that the Knock Filtering shouldn't be used while tuning?

The engine is only 0.030 oversize, would that make a significant difference? I see you've done a lot of work towards an "adjustable knock filter", has that been achieved yet?

You have enabled knock count logging but its clear from the logs you dont have a knock filter installed - the knock counts are always ~200 counts. You will need to find a standard knock filter and sensor for a 305 chev - I dont know what setup they use (some US cars have an external knock filter box). Your going to have to research this.

Tune it past 4800RPM then, your in control of the timing now and have spark control to 9600RPM The BLCF bin is a base for a stock standard holden V8.

Do you mean to leave the low RPM stuff for later, and that OSE $12P tables cover unto 9600 RPM?

No, I meant the spark table can be tuned using the points in it to 9600RPM. However I would be leaving the high RPM and load areas until you have a handle on things and get the low load areas sorted.

I'm so happy

While looking for something else on the Internet I happed to stumble onto this page http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ecm_swap_730/, and followed this link off of it (near the BOLD type regarding ESC Knock Sensor) http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ec ... /165KS.txt

Then I bridged pins B11 and A12 with a 4K ohm resistor and there is no more of that constant knock signal around the 200 mark. So there is no knock reatarding going on and the car runs much much better.

Did I say I'm very happy about that? I am

[charlay86]

You will need to find a standard knock filter and sensor for a 305 chev - I dont know what setup they use (some US cars have an external knock filter box). Your going to have to research this.

Looks like you that link you posted answers this question; Use the '730 knock filter and knock sensor for your motor.

[redcamaro]

Not really, there is not a memcal in the ECU, just NVRAM and that board has not got a Knock Sensor installed on it either...

The MAF Camaro's up to about 1989 have an external ESC Knock Sensor module mounted on the firewall in the engine bay by default. That put's out a 100K ohm signal as is expected by the 1227165 ECU on pin B7.

The 90-92 Camaros with MAP (Speed Density) have the Knock Sensor board on the memcal, in the 1227730 ECU, which expects a 3.9K ohm signal on B7. The 90-92 Camaro with MAP does not have an external ESC KS module on the firewall.

I retained the external module when I converted from MAF to MAP, so that I might later revisit the tunable Knock Sensor stuff that others have been working on in the past, and it's easier to work with because it's bigger than the memcal board type.

So the gist is... you too can use an external ESC KS module if you bias the signal with a 3.9K (3.8K-4.2K) ohm resistor. Then you don't have to have the signal processor inside the ECU, and you can access it easily if you want to play.

Oh! If you're running $12P the wire to pin B7 gets moved to pin B11.

[redcamaro]

The O2 sensor overheating is probably more to do with being too lean and probably a bit of not enough timing too. Since I've been battling the constant knock that it had, but I think it's more so because it's always too lean when it happens.

Anyway, here's a short log showing no more spurious knock.

redcamaro-no-knock.xdl

So that's that sorted out, the car feels much lighter to drive now.

I guess there comes a time when every newbie asks, 'why don't I just turn on the learn function and go for a drive'. Why don't I do that? Just curious...

I'm hoping to get some time on a Dyno next week, to give me a good starting point for the modified engine. Who knows it might need more mods.?

Stay Tuned....

[delcowizzid]

now that its running and driving you could turn on closed loop and see what the BLM tables look like to further tune the ve table

[redcamaro]

To turn off closed loop the min and max 'enable' temperatures were set to above 150* C - is that the correct way to disable closed loop?

Is there any way to determine which table the engine is running off VE - 20-100kPa Volumetric Efficiency (VE) as a function of MAP and RPM or VE - Closed Throttle VE vs RPM ?

[Holden202T]

closed throttle ve v's rpm is as the name suggests, only when the throttle is closed, but there is also a flag to determine wheather its enabled or not, by default it isn't and you only usually would use it if you have a massive cam that you can't get to idle properly.

[delcowizzid]

that tune is running very lean in most spots if the wideband is reading correct smash this tune in heaps more VE and spark be carefull its all purely guesswork based on your logs.you should be seeing no higher than 13:1 on the wideband at anything over 80kpa .at low rpm at 100kpa like if you stand hard on the gas you should see as rich as 11:1 or so then leaning out to 13 at high revs but i wouldnt go full throttle and hold it yet the tunes nowhere near close enough to be safe

redcamaro_tune delcowizzid.bin

[redcamaro]

Thank you holden202 for the closed throttle flag advice, I'll look for that again. I remembered turning it on ages ago to try and then I couldn't find it again - to the point that I thought it was 'in another lifetime'...

that tune is running very lean in most spots if the wideband is reading correct smash this tune in ...

redcamaro_tune delcowizzid.bin

Thanks to delcowizzid for your input and sending it to me... I really appreciate it! I snipped your quote, but I will be careful with the tune - no worries.

I might have time to give a quick (and careful) run in the morning, and I'll post back the log for everyone. Cheers

[redcamaro]

Wow! That's amazing, what a difference it makes when you know what you are doing - especially at a distance i.e. remotely. You got the knack man.

Here's the log file

redcamaro_tune delcowizzid 02.xdl

and the bin file downloaded from the ECU after logging

redcamaro_tune delcowizzid 02 after logging.bin

and the RAM from the ecu incase they're different...

redcamaro-delcowizzid 02.bin

After the amazement subsided I noticed;
1. idle could be a bit slower, but more importantly (and I laboured on the next point),
2. there's a flat spot upon applying throttle - I noticed this about 7:30 - 8:30 minutes on a freeway stretch, then reproduced it in a lower gear around 11-12 minutes, then at a slower speed after about 14 minutes where I dwelled on the throttle to maintain the surge and slowly applied throttle until it, well literally "started to take off"!

Thanks delcowizzid

[Edit] I think the wideband may have fallen over again at some point during the log run too... So it comes back again to I think it's still too close to the engine i.e. a bit of both factors 1. too lean, and 2. overheating. I'll keep an eye on it with a view to moving it closer to the CAT converter when I have time to get under there. It's currently located at the end of the "Y" pipe, the point in the exhaust just after where the left and right side of the engine meet up.