Interesting youtube video's...

[Charlescrown]

Sorry messed that up.
You have to sign up.
Try this
https://e.engage.transport.nsw.gov.au/l ... ce77a1b282

[Wade]

I had seen this some time ago but didn't realise it affected sellers.
The RMS sends out info to car enthusiast (sorry my email is shit and can't find the latest so you can apply for emails but I will asap) and they recently targeted a car club venue at Silverwater and either defected the car or put it off the road so my guess there is an underlying vendetta taking place now against modified cars in NSW. I'm in hiding.

Yeah already happening in nsw. But most recent video I seen was that it’s about to be a big thing in vic too.

[pman92]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LZAZvm34rYs

[vlad01]

This is a very long one, but a good one on the state of things in computing and the AI apocalypse.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyQwAhppWj8

[Wade]

https://youtu.be/NwpS_enhQkM?si=FVdkk0qKFP-HvWcw

[vlad01]

One of the comments makes a great point about the fact if you're not having leaks, blown gaskets or heads lifting, then there should be no need for head studs with extra clamping where it can and does introduce it's own issues like this.

And I am 100% with this, I always felt at least with the v6, the obsession with studs everywhere even in mild builds when even the factory GNX never used them without any problems is good data to support that OEM fasteners get the job done with ample headroom in most applications.

I have heard people blaming broken main caps on the caps themselves, but they have broken them at less than 500hp which should not be possible (on an eco with cross bolted caps), I suspect studs are likely the culprit and have distorted the cast iron (in that case actually forged powdered steel) to the point of inducing a fracture since cast iron is very stiff and strong, but this lack of flex and malleability and it's brittle nature does not bode well with excessive distortion.

And with alloy parts, alloy is actually very springy in non plastic deformation range, so it moves a lot under enough clamping loads. With my old job the alloy vacuum beds which were up to 3.2m long and needed to be flat within 0.05mm range, which really showed alloy's pain in the ass nature to try keep it in spec and it's tendency to distort like a MF, especially when things warmed up (even 10c change would F up a days work leveling the beds into spec), the new models that came out just before I finished up wend to concrete filled structures for the CNC machine, since concrete is far more stable that steel and alloy. Machinist's tables/blocks are granite for exactly this reason.

[antus]

This one is not showing anything people who have been working with EFI and wiring for years would not know, but I accidentally stumbled across it tonight and thought it was a good description of problem solving electrical issues and I'd like to think that it'd be a good intro video to someone who does not know where to start tracing ghosts in an EFI system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dYJrWd940I

[Wade]

One of the comments makes a great point about the fact if you're not having leaks, blown gaskets or heads lifting, then there should be no need for head studs with extra clamping where it can and does introduce it's own issues like this.

And I am 100% with this, I always felt at least with the v6, the obsession with studs everywhere even in mild builds when even the factory GNX never used them without any problems is good data to support that OEM fasteners get the job done with ample headroom in most applications.

I have heard people blaming broken main caps on the caps themselves, but they have broken them at less than 500hp which should not be possible (on an eco with cross bolted caps), I suspect studs are likely the culprit and have distorted the cast iron (in that case actually forged powdered steel) to the point of inducing a fracture since cast iron is very stiff and strong, but this lack of flex and malleability and it's brittle nature does not bode well with excessive distortion.

And with alloy parts, alloy is actually very springy in non plastic deformation range, so it moves a lot under enough clamping loads. With my old job the alloy vacuum beds which were up to 3.2m long and needed to be flat within 0.05mm range, which really showed alloy's pain in the ass nature to try keep it in spec and it's tendency to distort like a MF, especially when things warmed up (even 10c change would F up a days work leveling the beds into spec), the new models that came out just before I finished up wend to concrete filled structures for the CNC machine, since concrete is far more stable that steel and alloy. Machinist's tables/blocks are granite for exactly this reason.

Yeah I agree 100% I’ve always chased the threads with undersized taps and cleaned everything out, never really had any issues with lifting heads either. I do see a lot of broken exhaust studs though, which I put down to the different expansion rates. I do find it interesting that not many people are talking about this kinda stuff though. I remember watching a video with Tom Nelson and he was saying they’ll even bolt oil pumps on or what ever else that can cause distortion just to simulate that while machining. The thing I like about head studs and obviously the mls gaskets is you can re use them, which is handy when your continuously playing inside the engine.

[Wade]

https://youtube.com/shorts/pf5Lz4gd8Fg? ... 4h1y1pAQmH

[vlad01]

One of the comments makes a great point about the fact if you're not having leaks, blown gaskets or heads lifting, then there should be no need for head studs with extra clamping where it can and does introduce it's own issues like this.

And I am 100% with this, I always felt at least with the v6, the obsession with studs everywhere even in mild builds when even the factory GNX never used them without any problems is good data to support that OEM fasteners get the job done with ample headroom in most applications.

I have heard people blaming broken main caps on the caps themselves, but they have broken them at less than 500hp which should not be possible (on an eco with cross bolted caps), I suspect studs are likely the culprit and have distorted the cast iron (in that case actually forged powdered steel) to the point of inducing a fracture since cast iron is very stiff and strong, but this lack of flex and malleability and it's brittle nature does not bode well with excessive distortion.

And with alloy parts, alloy is actually very springy in non plastic deformation range, so it moves a lot under enough clamping loads. With my old job the alloy vacuum beds which were up to 3.2m long and needed to be flat within 0.05mm range, which really showed alloy's pain in the ass nature to try keep it in spec and it's tendency to distort like a MF, especially when things warmed up (even 10c change would F up a days work leveling the beds into spec), the new models that came out just before I finished up wend to concrete filled structures for the CNC machine, since concrete is far more stable that steel and alloy. Machinist's tables/blocks are granite for exactly this reason.

Yeah I agree 100% I’ve always chased the threads with undersized taps and cleaned everything out, never really had any issues with lifting heads either. I do see a lot of broken exhaust studs though, which I put down to the different expansion rates. I do find it interesting that not many people are talking about this kinda stuff though. I remember watching a video with Tom Nelson and he was saying they’ll even bolt oil pumps on or what ever else that can cause distortion just to simulate that while machining. The thing I like about head studs and obviously the mls gaskets is you can re use them, which is handy when your continuously playing inside the engine.

I learned a lot of this stuff from Jake Raby when he still had the type4 forum for his engines. From what I know, he was doing that stuff on the air cooled engines like at least a decade before other engine shops and builders started even talking about it. I recall a lot about how he'd measure and compensate for bearing crush and so many different points, while everyone else were using plasti-gauge.

One of the first I recall to do billet cylinder liners that took up all the slack in subaru engines, and making them closed deck. That was around the early 2010s iirc, not long before he closed his forum from what I remember?

A lot of this stuff is how I learned something so old and limited in Ks could be made to last like 200-300k+ and have very high output per volume, all from these small but very important details. It's basically material science.


If you get your head around fastener technology and metallurgy, you quickly realise the marvel of OEM fasteners and ones like ARP aren't better across the broad, they are a trade off in certain qualities and for long term stability it's hard to beat OEM. Oh and TTY is a very good thing once you understand it!
There are other more boutique engine fastener manufactures out there that shit all over ARP anyway, ARP have been rumored to have had bad batches over the years and I have seen data to back this up many years ago and more recently a couple of years ago. Knowing what I know, I have made a mental note to avoid ARP for any future projects and I see no evidence that I ever needed them or will need them for anything I do going forward. Most actual serious builders that aim for long term reliability go for Carr rod bolts. I can't recall the mob, but some English mob are considered one of only a couple of top engine bolt and stud manufactures and were recommended but a few people I talked to regarding limitation/problems with the ARP stuff.