VS V6 Problems.

[Spin]

Story is I was comming home the other night and it started running rough ie; spluttering , coughing and loseing power. CEL on.
When I got home I dumped the codes. 43, 47, 73 77, 97. from memery then disconnected the battery overnight.

It had been sometimes throwing an 18x sig missing code and fan no low speed. (no BCM) but apart from that no other problems.

Next Morning started with a high idle and stuck in second gear and not turning the thermo fans on.
Dumped pretty much the same codes.
I have tryed the earth fix but no different.
I did replace the CAS as it was under suspicion for a while.
Next phase is to check all the power imputs on the PCM.
Items checked so far,
All fuses,
2 x PCM's ( one is a RFI, other is bog standard)
Relays,
no rubbed/brocken wiring on the motor,
earth points on the motor solid.
I know, I should go poking around with a DVM but all I am using ATM is a test light and 12v battery. (a little bit of load can tell the story)

Vechile is a 1988 Hilux with VS v6 in it, 4l60e.
adapter loom is one made by a well known conversion place in Victoria.
Dual fuel, running LPG piggy back vapour injected.

At least it got me home.

[The1]

knock sensors hooked up? Tried another DFI Module? Do you have canister purge solenoid hooked up? to change Pressure Control Solenoid valvebody has to come out from memory. Other one might be o2 sensor

[Spin]

THX Theone,
Al in place and running esp. knock and O2 sensors.
DFI will be swapped out as I do carry a spare with coils in situ.

Even though I have this problem I must state that when I built it,
It wasnt a "Saturday afternoon lets put the commo motor in the Hilux before we go fishing sorta thing" LOL
I spent a lot of time doing the wiring side of it.
When it went for engineering even the engineer said that he wouldn't expect anything less of me.


Time will tell.

[Spin]

Ok,
Just an update.
I have not gone down to real tintacks yet.
Codes fired are, 12 12 12 35 35 35 73 73 73 73 76 76 93 93 93
Just for the heck of it I swapped out the TPS,DFI and IAC.
Checked for voltage on maf etc...
Same result.
Still starts with a high idle, 1500 rpm.
Still only changing to 2nd only.
Can these things blow the ring out of the PCV valve. ????

It is now sitting out the front with the battery disconnected again.

Getting very hairy.

[charlay86]

Can these things blow the ring out of the PCV valve. ????

No, but if it was on lpg and backfired that might have been able to.
Might want to pull of the TB and see if it is ok, if it is idling high (and giving you a DTC 35 - idle speed error) it means the engine is getting too much air one way or another.
DTC 73 is PCS current error, which probably has somehitng to do with it wanting to be in 2nd (or is it in 3rd? usually transmission faults default to 3rd gear)
DTC 93 is a problem with the PCM's internal knock sensor circuit.

[Holden202T]

try and get some carby cleaner etc and spray it around the manifold gaskets and joins, if the engine note changes that might tell you you have a leaking gasket or something like that.

[Spin]

THX Charlay,
OK,
True, but it did not backfire as "BANG" more a pop and a fart, a fair bit. LOL
wth Vapour injection it is not a massive explosion that destroys your MAF and/or aircleaner box.
Thats the almost main reason I went with a piggy back style system.
Besides, the pcv valve apears to be a robust built unit.

Yes, I am starting to think that I have a vacume leak somewhere on the plenum/rocker assy that I cannot hear.
Am thinking to remove the IAC then block its holes of then start it. Otherwise Start ya bastard will prove that.

The knock sensor circuit well, same fault with now 3 PCM's. all hooked up and showing continuaty back to PCM.
I disabled the VATS in each memcal.

Maybe the PCM is trying to force shift to 3rd but wont and is getting itself confused like me. PMSL
I will do an amperage test on the relevant wire to prove this.

I am sure it is some thing so bloody obviouse I am over journalising my fault finding as I have only spent a small amount
of time digging into it.

Thank you for thinking along the same lines as me.

[Spin]

SNAP

[Holden202T]

if you want to cancel out the iac without removing it, unplug the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure reg, it will make the engine idle higher and the iac will close to try and offset it, once its closed up just unplug the IAC and then that will stop it opening

[Spin]

Thanks '202,
I was thinking along the same lines meselfs.
Anyway, I did not get to it today.
But I did spray a highly flammable substance around the inlet manifold using all precautions only when the motor
was first started and keeping a respectful distance from the alternator.
No change. I then used oil along the inlet where it was not safe to do so.
No change, BUT,
Down to 2 codes now,
PCS and forget the other one.
I am starting to think that I am chasing a power fault with the TPS that was faulty as well.
Next thing to do tomorrow afternoon is check the power supply to the transmission.
I think the supply is blue/white, dunno but will consult the wiring diagrams from here.
If not OK I will find it or bypass as a test then with power restored if still at fault and
needed I will do an amperage check on the PCS line.
Upgrading to a VT loom and PCM plus VL400's BCM is starting to look good to me.