Delco tuning for for dummys

[Dec_head]

Delco tuning for for dummys


I want to put a detailed guide together as i learn to teach myself and others the basics of tuning delcos and save the same questions being asked over and over as i am sure it is annoying to those answering
so please feel free to contribute

For starters

VN-vp auto and manual use a 27c128 eprom and a 16k bin file
vr v6 and vr vs v8 manual use a 27c256 eprom and a 32k bin file
Vr v6 and and vr vs v8 auto use a 27c512 eprom and a 64k bin file
Vs v6 auto and vt v6 and v8 auto and manual use a 27c1001 and a 128k bin file


SO to start with you would read your chip with an eprom programmer using the appropriate settings or download one these are called bin files.
Then to adjust anything you need and xdf file for use in tunerpro to translate the settings very important that this matches your bin file and everything lines up.
And for checking engine functions you use aldl data logging with programmes like scannerpro tunerpro rt efi live etc

So far i can explain a few terms used in tuner pro and their functions myself

Kinjflow - is the flow rate for the injectors their is a helpful calculator for this setting available for download.

Vats - Vehicle anti theft system this is related to the security which without the correct signal from the body control module or bcm the engine will not start
so this is disabled if fitting the engine into another vehicle or if using a tune from a different model with a different bcm.

Tps - throttle position sensor basically tells the cars computer where the throttle is positioned

Mat sensor - is the manifold air temp the temperature of the air flowing through the inlet manifold

Map - is the inlet manifold air pressure

02 sensor - oxygen sensor is in the exhaust and fluctuates in voltage depending on fuel mixtures

Main spark advance - is the timing degrees used based on other inputs such as map and rpm

Knock sensor - it is used to detect shock waves caused by harmful engine conditions wich will back of timing etc and hopefully save your engine
all v6 commodores have them standard from what i have read. but in the v8's they were only used in conjunction with hsv or interceptor tunes wich had timing advanced to achieve extra power. quite often they are disabled in these tunes so that they can be run in standard vehicles as long as high octane fuel is used this apparently does not pose a problem.

Just found a list on this site

https://pcmhacking.net/forums/view ... =afr#p2489

[v6bucket]

Great idea This post would suit me.I think I qualify as a dummy

[Dec_head]

Here is a data log of my engine running like crap revving every now and then to stay idling any suggestions.

[Jayme]

not much good without the definition you used to log it. can you post it up or a link to which one you used? is it tp5 or scannerpro?

[Dec_head]

I was using ose12p tunerpro 5 vr_$12_v1.03.adx

[Jayme]

hard to tell without seeing and hearing exactly what the car is doing... for a start, it looks very rich to me, I mean it herdly swung below 800mv the whole log. I cant be bothered seeing exactly what the differences are, but you should be using a $12p adx as they are different.

what exactly is the problam? wont idle? runs rough?
can you post a copy of the bin you are running in it? when did the problem start? was it when you started running $12p?

[Dec_head]

engines fresh it has flat top pistons torque power dual plane manifold a holley twin throttle body standard injectors those crap hsv extractors 3 inch cat back 284 crane cam in a vr v8 manual.

I have copied the cam ve spark maps etc from the 284 vn into the 12p tune it was running ok above idle when cold but idled like it was way 2 rich until it warmed up then seemed ok on the 40 degree day we had
today it it is a lot cooler and just seems to be rough all the time.
Is their anything that seems off other then the mixture it might even be fouled plugs i always have trouble with ngk's failing in engines that run rich.
i will buy some bosch plugs tomorrow and do another log .


This is the tune i was running my first experiment correct me if have stuffed something does anyone have something that would be a closer match to start with for my engine.
The main spark stopped at 4800 on the vn bin so i just left it from there on should i adjust it to be the same as the last reference all the way to the end ?
and what specific areas do i adjust for fuel mixtures for idle and running according to temp warm up etc

[Jayme]

in my opinion, that 284 bin is crapola. spark advance table isnt great, but that can be fixed later, its fuel thats your problem. can you start by unticking "Map A: set=Use F60 Air Fuel ratio vs RPM and MAP Table, clear=Stoich A/F", it doesnt look like you will ever hit closed loop in that tune, and your VE's are too rich by the looks. holden202 might be able to give you a closer VE table, hes just built an engine with the same manifold, TB and similar cam, I reckon his tune will be a much better start.

next log you do, use the adx that came in the $12p kit, it will help to read the log having all the correct outputs logged. you should be able to drastically improve that bin once you get closed loop going, by making a BLM histogram and using an excal sheet to scale your VE's accordingly.

in your spark map your 100kpa curve should top out at 29 degrees at 4800 and copy that value up to 6000rpm

my 400-4800 spark goes like this:

29.18
28.13
27.07
26.37
26.37
27.77
27.77
26.72
25.66
22.15
16.88
13.01


and thats on a stock cam, yours should take more low rpm timing than that. keep an ear out for pinging tho.

[Holden202T]

well i can't really give you too much exact advise as i have been tuning a 304 with a crow cam ... but apparently its similar to a crane 286 ....

first thing, try turning the idle up a bit, the one im working with seems to idle at 1000rpm pretty happily .... you might need 800-900rpm idle ....

probably want to get the o2's at about 600-650mv at idle when its in idle afr (13.6 or whatever it is) make sure the engine is warmed up though....

pretty much work on getting it sorted warm then the cooler stuff will be easier afterwards.

it might need a bit more timing at idle .... also make sure if you have 24 degrees for the idle areas of the main spark map make sure the same numbers are in the idle spark map, if they are different it will make the spark move around heaps at idle.

you want to get it idling at a suitable rpm then close or open the butterfly stop screw till the idle air control steps are about 5-15 .... i try to get them about 5-10 then it gives it a bit of room to adjust idle steps if it needs it ... once you have that set it should help.

also one thing to keep an eye on ... with the stock tunes they usually have the same idle spark numbers for say 20-50 kpa ... then they taper off, i know my mates car idles at 60-70kpa so it was causing some erratic idle timing so just check your kpa at idle and see ..... set as appropriate.

also you might need to experiment with idle AFR and / or warm up AFR ... generally a bigger cam wants to idle richer and if its not rich enough it will not be too happy ... but also too rich and you'll have plug fouling issues etc as you've said.... it will just be a matter of trial and error to see what works with your setup.

ok just looked at your log .... firstly idle rpm is probably too low ...

definatelly way to rich at idle ... actually looks like its too rich everywhere in the lower rpms ...

not enough timing at idle, get it up to about 24-26 degrees see how that goes ? you want to increase /decrease the timing to get the lowest map kpa reading you can ....

somethings way wrong there .... in the log at 6:30 the IAC just goes off its head to like 190 steps ... you didn't disconnect the iac or something did you ?

that should get ya started ... give that a whirl and see how it goes ....

[Holden202T]

ok your idle spark table is all fucked ....

for editing use TP 4 only, don't bother with TP5 ,.,,, basically your 100kpa spark is what the 20kpa should be and vice versa, its ass about ... that wont be helping anything...

then change the main spark table up to 1000rpm for the same numbers .... you probably want to get the same number from 20kpa to about 60-70 kpa just to make sure it keeps a steady idle

your numbers in the idle rpms in park etc are too low too ... i'd suggest probably 850 to start with in park .... once you get it all idling smooth there then lowering it to 800 and see if its still happy, if not up it till it is ... then the drive one you'll just have to go by feel....

oh and with the timing above 4800rpm ... work on another 2-3 degrees for every 1000rpm increase .....

well its getting too late must get some sleep!