VS Ecotec, Flooding one bank of cylinders??

[Gareth]

Any one seen this before?

This is the second time this has happened to this car (my VH speedway car) I haven't read the bin yet but had it tuned a long time ago by a workshop here in vic, (I assume its Kalmaker) was told that if the battery was ever disconnected that it needs to have key on and off for 10sec before it will start (no VATS) Had the battery disconnected last night, reconnected, key on-off, runs like a bag of shit... Fouled plugs on the RHS of the engine, disconnect those three injectors to dee-flood those cylinders Runs again...

Haven't collected any data on this yet, was just after some ideas on how this may be happening.

P.S - there are no vacume leaks

[vlad01]

does it run 2 O2 sensors? one for each bank?

[Gareth]

yes it does

should add that it chucked code 44 - oxygen signal lean and 76 - ST fuel trim delta high

and should add that the tune is.... crap I can't understand why anyone would target 10:1 afr WOT on an N/A engine

[vlad01]

yes it does

should add that it chucked code 44 - oxygen signal lean and 76 - ST fuel trim delta high

and should add that the tune is.... crap I can't understand why anyone would target 10:1 afr WOT on an N/A engine

might be the fact you have then engine running cold all the time to why the 10:1 AFRs.

when it was tuned it could of been up to a reasonable temp, but never seen that in racing due to larger airflow.

Im going to take a stab as say maybe one side was running "lean" due to a dud O2 or wiring issue and its richen the crap out of one side to compensate.

I dont know enough of the later code to know how it all works. So I could be wrong.

Are you running a T5 in it?

[vlad01]

I would suggest you run a high flow 82ºC stat and seal the engine compartment and radiator properly, add a flap under the radiator support, something flexible like re-enforced rubber to take punishment on the track.

This will cause a vacuum in the engine bay and force air though the radiators. Radiators flow air far more efficiently when sucked through rather than blow through.

[Gareth]

might be the fact you have then engine running cold all the time to why the 10:1 AFRs.

yes this engine has always ran cold, but that figure was taken at 180' on the dyno.... (Had to unplug the water pump and fan to get it there in under half an hour )

The cooling system will get some tuning after this season

[vlad01]

something isn't right lol

it will be down on power for sure. When are you going to freshen it up?

If you do, want to 808 it? Im sure i saw a T5 in it so it would suit well. And maybe learn the MAF stuff on the VT instead and touch on auto stuff as well at the same time.

[Holden202T]

have you tried coving the radiator with a piece of cardboard ?

[Charlescrown]

Your code 44 can come about because the engine is flooded and cannot ignite the fuel. Just keep this in mind when looking at tuning.

[Gareth]

Vlad - no the box is a getrag, freshen up will happen in the next few months

The cooling system was made to work as follows, we usually race during summer and on 30' plus days, getting 8-12 laps per heat, keeping cool is usually hard work. So we run an alloy radiator, VS V6 thermo (running flat out constantly), Electric water pump and no thermostat, It has never overheated with that setup. Under load it takes about half a lap to reach operating temp (after a warm up lap, etc..)

The cooling system isn't the problem here, one side plugs are nice and clean while the other are wet... But only randomly, im sure this is a software/hardware fault, I just can't think of a way it could happen.