pcmhacking.net

Hi,
The wire running from the ABS sensor is the VS Commodore original wire, stripped at the end with 2 spade plugs crimped on (they fit onto the HEI module more firmly that the original camira plug).

Can I shield the original cable by wrapping it in foil, wind copper strands around it and then heat-shrink and grounding the shielding strands at the module end? Would that be worth a try?

I still think there must be some interference affecting more than just the trigger, but I don't know enough yet.

I bought some shielded microphone cable today, 2 core and 4 core. I can try to replace some sections of the look if I can learn which sections to do.

I have attached a log file from cranking. This log used a two-tooth wheel, ABS sensor with the polarity reversed on the sensor.

Have you tried a new set of resistor sparkplugs or just been cleaning plugs they could be poked. Was the replacement coil an electronic ignition coil not a points coil

going off the plugs in one of the puics it is the camira coil.

That log shows RPM hitting 9600 the instant you hit the starter, then jumping between 200 and 3000 roughly twice a second.
Maybe try disconnecting the injectors and leave the coil killswitch on, and grab another log to see if the interference is caused by the ignition system?

Thanks for your thoughts everyone.

delcowizzid
Spark plugs have been cleaned many times throughout this process, they have only been in there for around 3000k's.
I'm unfamiliar with the term "resistor spark plug". Is that different to a normal spark plug?

Holden202T
I swapped one Camira coil for another Camira coil.

Festy
I'll try that, thanks.

I'm also planning to try the following to see if I can narrow down the source of the interference:

Taking off the alternator belt to test if the alternator is creating some confusion. I hit the back of it with a spanner a fitting the headers while ago and created a rather large spark flash. I don't know if anything was damaged. It did run fine after that, apart from the battery dying over the next few months.
Swapping the distributor sensor for another which has its wires twisted with a bunch of exposed copper wire grounded at the module end and heat shrink covering.
Winding exposed copper wire around the crank sensor, heat shrinking and grounding it. This would be in place of the distributor sensor to generate a signal pulse.

The way it goes nuts as soon as you hit the key makes me think it's not the alternator - it's happening before the engine gets a chance to start rotating.
It could be a bad starter causing the RFI, but that wouldn't continue after you got it running...
Your wiring harness isn't running too close to any other wires that could be interfering?

If the plugs are toast the rfi will go up struggling to fire them. With efi you use resistor style sparkplugs that have an rfi suppressing resistance built in them and use good carbon leads. Post up the part number of your plugs

The wiring that runs near the engine loom in the engine bay includes:
Lighting, wiper washer, radio 12v supply only, wiring now redundant after the engine conversion.
The ecm sits under the fuse box, so it could get interference from anything in the car at that point.

The problem exists with radio on and off. The antenna cable does pass by the ECM but is not near the distributor sensor or ignition components other than the kill switch.

Geez, neat looking, I think we need a full photo of this