Tuning Order

[SVGE]

Hey all,

I’m wondering what’s the best order to Tune, what should you get done first AFR, Spark, Idle.

Then from those categories what is the order to go through seeing as they all seem to have multiple things that can affect them?

Please note I’m very new in slowly getting a base understanding just wanting guidance and trying to form a check list to work my way through I feel it’s something that’s handy to do so when researching and trying stuff your not altering stuff you shouldn’t be touching yet

I’m using TUNER PRO RT.
I am doing tuning a VY V6 N/A

As a little side question also I hear a lot about VE Tables but I do not see it do VY not use them ?? What is the equivalent?

Thanks in advance!

[antus]

You probably want to get idle in the ballpark first so you can sit there in the car looking at your laptop without it stalling. How you get the idle in might depend on calibrating any hardware you change, MAF, injectors, etc rather than idle tables. Then I'd do AFR, if the spark seemed sain and not dangerous to work with, if it did seem dangerous I'd change that a bit first, then come back to it. Then once the fueling is good, for a road tune I'd drive it and feel out the flat spots and add a little timing there, on the dyno you can be more methodological about timing. Then I'd check the fueling once again, it may need another a slight tweak.

VE maps pressure to flow, so it only applies when you are using a MAP sensor to measure manifold pressure, when the computer is needing airflow to calculate how much fuel to deliver. MAF provides airflow, so VE isn't required. You tune the MAF scalers with the spread sheet that can apply corrections and calculate new MAF scaler tables you can paste back in (You can't make sense of them directly in tunepro without using the helper spreadsheet). The other table is this one: viewtopic.php?p=126471#p126471

[Wade]

Tuning is one of those things that can take multiple years to learn. Your question is also difficult to answer as, where you start would depend on the application. If the car is stock it’ll be much easier than if it were heavily modified ect. In general you start with a base map, stock or as close to stock tune file. Where you go from there will depend on level of mods and experience. If the engine is stock it’s pretty much done and you can just data log and make small adjustments as you see fit. Most modern day cars are already tuned fairly well and improving them can be difficult. You just need to keep in mind that the manufacturers have rules and regulations they have to adhere too, and the emphasis is heavily based around meeting emissions and catering the mass general public, ie nanna might not like a responsive take off, or firm gear changes ect. Being an airflow meter equipped engine, you shouldn’t need to really touch any of that stuff, as the airflow meter directly measured the air entering the engine and will change fuelling to suit. You can however change power enrichment or commanded afr tables. The v6 is already going to be happy with 12.8 to 13.0:1 afr’s which is pretty much where it’s set already. The first steps when tuning is generally all the steady state stuff and idle ect and then you move into all the transients. Fuel is done before spark. You can also use fuel to cool combustion which will allow you to get a little more ignition timing in sometimes. I like to just be real picky if the cars fairly stock and make small changes here and there. For instance I might not like how smooth it idles or how the transmission changes ect. A heavily modified engine on the other hand is a totally different approach. Big cams, injectors, forced induction and stall converters to name a few will and can totally change the way an engine operates and therefore will require some large changes and a keen eye from the get go. Hp academy is a really good source of information. Or high performance fuel injection systems book by Greg banish. Oh and you can’t tune out a mechanical issue! lol