Spartan 3 lite v2 install

[darky82]

What is the best pin to use on the 0411 pcm to get a filtered ground i would assume they want you to use?
Also, does anyone know what colour the wire is on the output of the fuel pump relay on a vx 01 gen3?
I know it will prime for a few seconds, is that going to hurt the sensor at all while not running the engine?

[darky82]

Pretty sure the wire on the relay is violet

[vlad01]

I can't see why they would say not to have it running before the engine starts? I have the version down of the Spartan and I always have it powered before start so I can read out the sequencer without having to start the engine. I just have all my WB on the injector 12v so it's powered on key on.

[pman92]

I can't see why they would say not to have it running before the engine starts?

Moisture and condensation kills the sensors (and kills them very quickly, I've lost 2 with my Spartan2 powered all the time).
Same reason the sensor needs to be mounted on the correct orientation.

If the engine starts before the heater turns on, it drys up any moisture quickly, and then it's safe to heat them up.

[vlad01]

I've never had an issue and I've had my sensors for 12-8 years. If they are at 400-450c already, then any moisture can't condense on them in the first place. For the engine alone to dry them off naturally, it would take anywhere from approx 1-5 min depending on location.

The statement they provide is invalidated by the fact most cars have their factory sensors powered on at key on before the engine starts.

It could be the case a sensor is damaged when it is physically drowned in water, say if they are fitted upside down right at the tail pipe end where water can accumulate in mL quantities, but at the engine end, you never get more than a light fogging of moisture for a few min until the metal gets hot enough to be above the dew point of the exhaust gas. Having the heater on prevents any dew ever forming on the sensor.

Most common killer of sensors is chemical contamination of heavy metals and certain other elements like phosphorus, silicon, boron etc.. Eg, burning oil, unconventional fuels, coolant leaks etc... And of course, excessive carbon fouling.

The only real reference to sensor failure from water that I could find was from external water contamination into the reference air chamber via ingress into the wiring harness side.

[darky82]

Does still account for the LSU ADV sensor as there a different design?
Anyone know about the PCM earth?

[darky82]

Also how can I use the brown wire for the pcm?
It has a high and low input to the pcm from what I can see

[vlad01]

I'm using the LSU 4.9 for years and it's been rock solid, runs all the time with the ignition on, so I wouldn't worry about trying to figure out a way to power it after the engine running, the normal ignition will be fine, if you are worried, just don't leave it on without it running, turn the key and start it right away when the WB is installed and tuning for peace of mind, then go back to normal habits after the tune is done and the WB is removed. But personally I never bothered with any of their suggestions for this. I have never seen any water or even really condensation in the first half of the system on any of my cars, and I have run without the cat back and straight out of the headers and driven around, no water or moisture forms in that part, only really in the rear mufflers since they take forever to warm up and remain significantly cooler than the rest of the system and have slow gas speed too.

The ADV is a flat sensor element that has a higher temp range apparently and removes the calibration resistor according to the Bosch info page. So I guess it sounds more sturdy?

Can't assist on the grounding specific to your car as I am not familiar with the newer cars other than maybe suggesting you check out the service manuals for the the wiring. The grounds are separate on these newer controllers from Spartan which was a short coming in the older models having one combined ground, so you need to mount it on the block for the heater anywhere convenient, and just pay attention in finding a sensor/ECU grounding point, and piggy back off that. Those are just cleaner/less noisy grounds.

[darky82]

Thanks mate
On there website they say that they are tougher than the 4.9s so I guess time will tell
I was told but that they heat to 650c

Even the earlier ones the 4.1 I think it was were pretty tough too
I had the innovate lc 1 or 2, apart from the open air calibration it's lasted about 4 years for memory and that also ran off the key
As for moisture i rarely see any at all in the tail pipe, even in winter

[vlad01]

Should be all good then