Torana SS

[vlad01]

I'd personally go stainless as I am not a fan of the look of brass, material properties aside.

The bottom male thread needs to be 1/4 BSP, the only BSP thread on the whole car I just found out, this is becasue BSP is standard in Aus and the oil filter adapter is made for our market despite the rest of the engine being US (the buick) and everything else being NPT on it.
So it will have to be a custom hybrid sort of deal most likely. I haven't seen anywhere neat or elegant on the net without going into multiple adapters.

That's a thing for a distant future. For the VP S, a project that won't start until finances and other life stuff are sorted and stable. But that won't stop me engineering solutions and ideas on paper first.

[Charlescrown]

That engine is not Buick it's all Aussie Holden engine first released in the HG (I think).

[vlad01]

Yeah, I mean for my cars. I need a similar fitting made too.

[In-Tech]

That sucks you have to deal with different thread types on the same car

Code: Select all

BSP vs NPT

NPT threads are common in the United States and a few other countries, BSP threads (also know as the R subset according to ISO 7) are widely used in many other countries.

BSPT -British Standard Pipe Taper
BSPP -British Standard Pipe Parallel (G)
NPT -National Pipe Taper
NPS -National Pipe Straight
R - External taper (ISO7)
Rp - Internal Parallel (ISO7/1)
Rc - Internal Taper (ISO 7)
Rs - External Parallel

While the actual specified outside diameters of American National Pipe differ slightly from those of British Standard Pipe, either thread may reliably be cut onto a pipe of its respective trade size.  BSPT equivalent is NPT and BSPP’s equivalent is NPS.

Never swap threads if it is a high pressure application.

NPT/NPS and BSP threads are not compatible due to the differences in their thread forms, and not just the fact that most sizes have a different pitch. NPT/NPS threads have a 60° angle and have flattened peaks and valleys (Sellers thread form) where as BSP threads have a 55° angle and have rounded peaks and valleys (Whitworth thread form).

If it is a tapered pipe thread, I've had zero problems, in this type environment, screwing it in dry, remove, check witness marks, put teflon liquid thread sealant from one thread down and there upward and tighten the snot out of it

[vlad01]

Well that's what happens when you have a German chassis with GM and Ford drive-train shoved in

But even the engine is half metric and half imperial regardless of the above. There is minimal imperial on the car, just the internal bolts of the engine are but most else is metric on them. Gearbox is metric and Ford derived. The rear end is similar to what Morgan used, metric too. But this is what makes Holden commodores great, they picked all the elements of different counties local auto markets that appeal to Aussies. We (at least back then) liked smaller sized and European styling and chassis design, light, nimble and good handling, but Aussies like muscle car power when it comes to the drive train. No such cars really existed or do exist like than now, so that is why these cars were so successful back in the 80-00s in Aus.

Anyway, with the pipe standards it took me a long time to figure out what NPT was as it's very rare in Aus, it's all BSP or some metric size on the new cars, which by the way my car also has some metric fitting sizes for some of the sensors etc... That was easy to determine and work with. NPT on the other hand though, hard to find!

[immortality]

That sucks you have to deal with different thread types on the same car

Code: Select all

BSP vs NPT

NPT threads are common in the United States and a few other countries, BSP threads (also know as the R subset according to ISO 7) are widely used in many other countries.

BSPT -British Standard Pipe Taper
BSPP -British Standard Pipe Parallel (G)
NPT -National Pipe Taper
NPS -National Pipe Straight
R - External taper (ISO7)
Rp - Internal Parallel (ISO7/1)
Rc - Internal Taper (ISO 7)
Rs - External Parallel

While the actual specified outside diameters of American National Pipe differ slightly from those of British Standard Pipe, either thread may reliably be cut onto a pipe of its respective trade size.  BSPT equivalent is NPT and BSPP’s equivalent is NPS.

Never swap threads if it is a high pressure application.

NPT/NPS and BSP threads are not compatible due to the differences in their thread forms, and not just the fact that most sizes have a different pitch. NPT/NPS threads have a 60° angle and have flattened peaks and valleys (Sellers thread form) where as BSP threads have a 55° angle and have rounded peaks and valleys (Whitworth thread form).

If it is a tapered pipe thread, I've had zero problems, in this type environment, screwing it in dry, remove, check witness marks, put teflon liquid thread sealant from one thread down and there upward and tighten the snot out of it

I literally just did this, BSPT into NPT with some liquid teflon sealant.

[VK_3800]

I have three little boxes of the same size that need mounting in the same spot. 3D printed some spacers so I can stack them up.




Also finally decided it was time to start cutting wiring to length and fitting connectors. No more photos but the engine loom only needs one or two more and it's ready to test before wrapping.


Was going to modify the cold air tray with a funny shaped bulge to keep it minimal and maintain the original mounts. But decided that would look weird so spent a little time shuffling to the best possible position with the scoop removed, and took some measurements.


Re-made the standoffs again, taller and in stainless this time.

[VK_3800]

Made up a new piece so it will effectively become a drop base to provide space for everything.


Well, almost.


Mounted so that the filter element and seal edge are in the same position as before.




Heaps of room.

[VK_3800]

The next piece of the puzzle is actually connecting it to the throttle body, and I wanted a reasonable transition. Trying to get better with the aluminium casting, 3D printed a basic part with some extra for machining.


So far so good.


Spoke too soon as I couldn't get the sand in the centre to stay in place. Adapt on the fly.


The casting still has some porosity but a vast improvement over some other attempts. It was also a mess on the bottom so good thing I left extra for machining, but it cleaned up pretty well. Found an o-ring that will sit in the groove around the throttle body and machined the adapter to fit - probably unnecessary but seems to work well.


Transferred the hole to the filter base and used a bunch of tiny M3 stainless hardware.


Last thing I need to do is make a bracket for a filter retaining stud, then some seam sealer and paint.

[immortality]

Always enjoy your new post and the ingenuity for each new part or modification