help with tune

[immortality]

Yes and no.

More fuel keeps cylinder temperatures down and slows the burn. Ultimately it's about cylinder pressure, there is an optimum point to achieve maximum cylinder pressure to get the maximum power from the combustion event (the air fuel mix does not explode, it burns). The thing you have to remember is you are dealing with a stock ecotec engine which has reasonably weak pistons so you don't want to much cylinder pressure or heat with stock ring gaps and things will go bad fast. To much heat will cause the rings to butt up and lift a ring land. Don't run to much boost at low rpm or to much timing or it will end badly.

[tobydog]

So found a issue with the tune that's been causing me drama injector min pulse width I think it's called is way out had to guess injector info anyway is set to 45.01ms from memory should be like 0.35 or smaller will have play today

Ohhh quick question I have a failing 02 sensor bank one can I just put bank 2 sensor in bank one and turn off bank 2 thanks guys

[Wade]

Chuck a larger maf in. I’d also recommend getting the1 to generate new injector data for you if he still does that stuff. I had nothing but problems with fueling when I done the turbo 5l, but with the turbo eco I had that running and even idling better then stock injectors with the 80lb injectors thanks to the1. You’ll need stiffer valve springs the more boost you run, think I was up around 19psi. The v6’s are a rattle motor so expect false knock. Start off 5-7psi and slowly build your timing maps up. 11.8 afr’s under boost. A big trans cooler an corvette servo might help the 60e live a little longer as well. The afr’s can be a lot different from bank to bank as well so I’d aim for that 11.8 on the leaner bank just to be safe. It’s relatively cheap and easy to chuck a emp sensor in the exhaust and aim for that 1:1 ratio as well.

[tobydog]

So guys it's been roughly 150000 km now since I turboed the statesman and have not poped a head gasket or changed a motor but I have been threw a few 4l60e gearboxes and three cv shafts but been very happy with it gets daily driven on 14psi and given a hard time raced on street regularly so now I'm starting my Mazda build which is Mazda bravo 94 model ute with a vs Ecotec and 4l60e on this build I would like to run around 10psi being a vs ecu and being cheap lol would I get away with coping my maps from my vx to a vs and getting someone to burn a vs memcal for me or dose someone make a patch loom to swap from memcal base ecu to flash base ecu or is it just cheaper and easier to go nvram thanks guys

[tobydog]

And I would like to also thank everyone who helped with tunning and questions and advice given it was all appreciated and used when doing this project with out you guys it would have never left the garage and been another parted out dream that never made it thanks gents

[Wade]

You could copy your maps over but I’d still log it to make sure it’s all good, as there’s differences between the years. Changing to memcal you’ll need a burner. I thing Garith sells the Willem burners? Look under the for sale section on here. I’d definitely recommend a nvram as you get real time tuning. Either way it’ll be good to get a burner. You’ll get tired of removing a memcal every time you need to a change too. Another advantage to the nvram.