Beading/bead rolling tool/s for steel lines.

[Wade]

What parts are you making and selling mate?

[brindo]

If they’re 3/8 lines, can always just soft solder a 3/8 olive onto the pipe. Can machine or tape it down slightly or put a square edge of the back of it if you’d prefer before you solder it on. Functionally it will work the same, and with a hose over it its not visible.

[vlad01]

What parts are you making and selling mate?

Just some unused NOS parts mainly, also have the auto for sale from this car, fully custom built and barely drive.

The VR will be up for grabs as a roller in the next bunch of weeks, started stripping out the running gear and associated bits I want to keep as spares since so much work and NOS parts went into them.

Not making anything at the moment, haven't for some years.

[vlad01]

Yeah I looked at the Parker ones. But then when I actually went into buying them, there like 1100-1200 or so? So what the fuck. I could get down with 500-600 but not 1000+. Cheaper to buy a Chinese lathe and make ya own.

I have seen them on special before for around 400 usd, there is another clone similar in the US too that is 275 usd normally,

Yeah if I had access I would literally make a die set to press in my hydaulic press to form both the stop bead as well as that exact one in the photo, those aren't actually rolled, they are pressed in from the end like that.


Something like this would be cool to make that you stick in the press.

It shouldn't be overall complex, you'd just need to understand the mechanical principals and tolerances going on to have something home made.

https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... PfMzo,st:0

[vlad01]

If they’re 3/8 lines, can always just soft solder a 3/8 olive onto the pipe. Can machine or tape it down slightly or put a square edge of the back of it if you’d prefer before you solder it on. Functionally it will work the same, and with a hose over it its not visible.

Yeah that's an option, be a bit farmer style but it would work ok.

I want to look at the normal flaring tools and see if there is a way to sort of half way do a inverted flare to get the same or similar shape before going that path.

[Charlescrown]

Lookig at that machine does the hose stop at the second pressing?

[Wade]

I ended up just getting that one you posted. Bead wasn’t that deep. But I’ll try it an see.

[immortality]

I think that will be enough to stop a hose/clamp from slipping off.

[vlad01]

Looks too small, I think they are right that it only suits aluminium or copper which is much softer.

That's about as much bead on the radiators sold these days with the plastic ends have and the hoses come off often enough, I always try to use two hose clamps and keep tightening them over the next year or so until the plastic deforms into a dip that is much deeper than the bead/barb sticks out, so basically forming my own "barb", still sketchy as when the rubber squishes out over time, the hose needs the clamp tightening kept up or otherwise the hose can still come off when driving but less likely after the deformation.


These being metal, I reckon it will come off quick, especially given that PS and auto fluid lines always loosen from the fluid working its way under the rubber and eventually softening it/shrinking?

I like those spring clamps for that reason and will try change my PS cooler line to those as I get sick of re-tightening normal ones and ATF leaks after a few months if I don't check it enough at the start. With a larger bead they won't come off at least.

Is there a way to make the ball bearings force out further? the bead actually looks in good form but just not far enough out.


As for the machine video, the 2nd stop is all formed at the same time.

The die at the rear that holds the pipe firm, while the front die supports it loosely, that I reckon allows the whole front section of the tube to deform back down into itself, there should be a space or a groove for the stop bead to push out into and the moving die with the pin supports the pipe inside from buckling, it should have a tapered cone section in the base that forms the barb part on the end.


Something like that could be made for home use with the use of a press to provide the force needed.

One limitation I see with this machine is that the holding die it quite long, so you couldn't fit pre-bent pipes in for the most part, so you would need to work out very accurately how long your formed pipe would be, form the ends and then do the bending.

Shouldn't be an issue in production, but for one off projects it would be a pain.

I guess that's why the style of the bead the parker tools are not the same, but has in situ in favor of it.

[immortality]

In all my years driving Commodores I've never had a radiator hose blow off. Maybe the odd leak with old hoses but never a complete drastic failure. Same with PS lines, leaking hoses that are old and brittle but not a complete failure or a line blowing off.

Had a trans cooler line fail once, pin prick hole that blew fluid straight onto the header resulting in a spectacular smoke show with not a drop of fluid on the ground till I came to a stop. Pin prick hole in a top radiator hose, made a temporary repair (electrical tape and hose clamp) and drove it home.