Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
- delcowizzid
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Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
yeah i generally watch the gauge while covering a range of rpm in one load range and adjust as i see nessecary your eyes get a workout going from gauge to laptop to gauge to laptop LOL when you see the gauge go lean glance at the laptop and see what kpa and rpm you are at bubble tracing helps just a quick look for the bubble to see where you are LOL
If Its Got Gas Or Ass Count Me In.if it cant be fixed with a hammer you have an electrical problem
Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
Ahh ok. So how do you keep it in one load range at different rpms?
Is it the ve table you are adjusting? How do you work out how much you need to change each cell by?
Is it the ve table you are adjusting? How do you work out how much you need to change each cell by?
Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
watch MAP sensor asjust pedal to keep the sensor at one reading while rpms go up. ride brake if you want it to go a bit slower to get more data 
on dynos they do it the other way.... lock dyno to one speed and slowly press pedal to go thru a range of map cells at one rpm.

on dynos they do it the other way.... lock dyno to one speed and slowly press pedal to go thru a range of map cells at one rpm.
- Holden202T
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Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
yes VE table, and you know how much to adjust it by mainly with experience. normally if the fuelling is pretty close, i'll change the ve number by 2 and update, then see how much that changes the wideband and then narrow and fine tune from there.vc81 wrote:Is it the ve table you are adjusting? How do you work out how much you need to change each cell by?
in tunerpro I've setup shortcuts to use A and Z on the keyboard to increase and decrease the selected value, on the dyno realtime tuning i have the mouse over the top of the update button and use the arrow keys to work across the cells, then use A and Z to change value, hit mouse button, change value, hit mouse button etc.
same process for the spark table, load it to a cell, increase or decrease timing at that point to get max torque and then move on to the next cell.
its definitely a lot easier to do it on a dyno, but some people don't like the cost of dynos so tend to just to street tuning, unfortunately i don't have that option for my race car, but i also know the dyno operator and he always gives me a good price but also he can go off and work and i control the dyno myself so im only paying to use his dyno not for him to tune it for me which is half of the cost!
i just get him over to control the dyno while i do power runs.
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower! 
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread

Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
Your lucky to know the dyno owner mate that sure would make things a lot easier.
Is there any way when street tuning to know when max torque is reached? As you mentioned you do on a dyno when doing timing changes?
How did you set up the A and Z keyboard shortcuts? Sounds like an excellent idea!
Is there any way when street tuning to know when max torque is reached? As you mentioned you do on a dyno when doing timing changes?
How did you set up the A and Z keyboard shortcuts? Sounds like an excellent idea!
- Holden202T
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Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
in tunerpro tools -> preferences then keyboard tab, there are two that say increment and decrement I think.
as far as tuning timing on the street I generally try for the most vacuum ie. if your cruising at 2400rpm 60kpa, and you add timing and you have to lift the throttle to keep at that speed that generally means its heading in the right direction.
obviously if you go too far it will start loosing torque and hense you'll need more throttle to maintain that same point.
as far as tuning timing on the street I generally try for the most vacuum ie. if your cruising at 2400rpm 60kpa, and you add timing and you have to lift the throttle to keep at that speed that generally means its heading in the right direction.
obviously if you go too far it will start loosing torque and hense you'll need more throttle to maintain that same point.
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower! 
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread

Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
- antus
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Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
i'd select the cell your on and a row of cells around it too, and adjust the whole lot. You'll get a lump but you can smooth that out afterwards, but it'll make it easier to keep the car in the range your adjusting.
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
- vlad01
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Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
Jayme wrote:watch MAP sensor asjust pedal to keep the sensor at one reading while rpms go up. ride brake if you want it to go a bit slower to get more data
on dynos they do it the other way.... lock dyno to one speed and slowly press pedal to go thru a range of map cells at one rpm.
the dyno automatically changes the load as required to hold that rpm right?
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
- antus
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Re: Tuning with just mtx-l gauge
yep, generally kph, but you hold a gear and get the result.
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396