new alternator is in and seems to have more volts after a quick start up. then laptop went flat and fuel tank empty.
symptoms were low volts when cold 12.6-8, then 13.2 warm, then 12.8hot. which means I can't use those compensation tables to repair the leanout when hot even tho the volts drop when hot too. makes it too rich when cold.
if my new alternator can keep the volts more steady while super hot, I might have a fighting chance by fudging the inverse temperature term table in the higher temps. If all else fails... I might even try setting up the "cold engine" maps from zero up to 80c and have a rich table for hot engiine afr's. You have to make large changes to the inverse temp term map in the high temp areas to gain only a small change in afr. ie going from 80 down to 1 nets around 1afr or a bit more.
if will save you all the hassle. AFR will stay stable regardless of voltage, then its will be just a matter of getting your coolant temp inverse table sorted.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Yeah I won't disagree with that. However I think I have other problems with the wiring too that won't be helping, and might be causing volt changes that are going un noticed by the ecu.
Ever since swapping the diesel engine for the petrol v8 there's been an issue with dull dash lights when turning the key on 2 clicks. the oil,brakes,etc. so dull I can hardly see them.
The new alternator is showing 14.3 volts at battery but the ecu is only reading 13.2 for some reason. I've got a feeling I fed the ecu it's ignition power from the old wire that went to the diesel injector pump kill switch solenoid and I think that wire comes from either one of 2 black boxes that sit in the engine bay right beside my turbo manifold and all the other ecu,ignition module wires, ignition wires etc are all clumped together just behind the down pipe from the turbo and they get extremely hot in there too.
I would at least be running a new power wire direct from battery through a relay and run your ign wire to trigger it. ive had bad results in the past just finding an ignition power and using it directly.
Fixed the dull dash lights by running a large earth from block to body as it didn't have one. And changed the injector to .047 with the double fire and now its got plenty of juice!
The downside is i still havent maxxed out the 044 pump. Someone said they are good for 700hp and im at 15psi and 6000 rpm with 80% duty cycle so that would put the engine around 560hp. Sound right?