camira wiring into toyota

[ccclv]

Hi there, I've been lurking around this forum for a while, but this is my first post.

Im fitting a delco to a toyota 4k engine usuing a d1927a module and crank trigger.

So I have a few questions to make sure im heading in the right direction.

Firstly do I need this capacitor in the system?
Its between the coil positive and negative, maby its just a suppressor of some sort.

2016-06-14 14.59.23.jpg (426.33 KiB) Viewed 5639 times

Secondly
B+
Power grnd

Logic grnd
Reference
Bypass
Est
None
Tacho are all straight foward

However
N N P I assume would be the signal from the crank sensor?

Would it be negative, shield in the middle and positive?

IG-D1927-400x400.jpg (32.77 KiB) Viewed 5639 times

Thanks in advance (pardon the pun)

[antus]

Yes the capacitor is a supressor. I'd recommend you keep is as the sudden current draw on any HEI coil is pretty extreme and the more you can smooth that out the better for the rest of the system.

No the signal is not the center pin (I built my first one this way assuming that would be the case only to have a no start until I checked everything!) The diagram you post is probably correct.

[ccclv]

Thanks for the quick reply,
Where would i put my crank angle sensor? And the 3 pin plug on its own what would that be for?

[antus]

Something like this:

http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic. ... =10#p21986

Note that the problems we had on that car turned out to be a faulty DOA coilpack, not vibrations in the mounting.

Which 3 pin connector do you mean? The N N P one is negative/negative/positive to the shielded wire to your crank sensor, which would normally be a 2 pin ABS sensor. Link the 2 N pins and run to the sensor. If wired backwards it'll run but really poorly so then if you suspect thats the case reverse the polarity.

[ccclv]

Yeah the 3 pin connector i was refering to is the NNP you are talking about, thats nice and clear now.

The set up i have so far is a
3k motor its in a ke10
R32 skyline turbo
Magna 775 blue top injectors
Surge tank and 044 pump
3" dump pipe and exhaust
4" stainless plenum with 1.5" bell mouth runners
Direct port nitrous kit
60mm throttle body
Intercooler off a diesel transit van.

I have a moates ostrich 2.0, inniovative lm2 wb and purchasing a Ecm usb comms for logging.

Was thinking of getting it running on 98 to start with no gas untill i get the bugs iorned out then look at e85 and the gas

What do you think i should do to as a starting point for the tune? After reading 65bellett's build, maby his bin with the 2bar flags set and play with the injector scaling?

Also I notice in 65belletts logs there is no vss input, as this is a track car and has no speedo does the ecu need to see a vss input?

Cheers,

[vlt304]

those injectors are way too small for boost (more than a sniff of it anyway) on petrol with no gas or e85. they will get it running tho watch the duty cycle when boost comes on. if e85 is on your mind late v8 ls2/3 have large ish injectors (42lb @ 58psi) rated for e85 and sometimes come up cheap. the blue tops are only 21lb @43.5psi from memory I'm sure The1 on here can give more accurate numbers.

[Dylan]

Blue tops are 28lb at 43psi not real big these days

[Charlescrown]

Hunt around and see if you can find a dissy that has magnetic pickup inside. They did come on some of the Jap import engines. It will make it a lot easier than mounting the sensors.

[ccclv]

Thanks vlt304 I'll use the blue tops to get it up and running(they cost me nothing) and I'll look around for some late ls injectors before I get it to a dyno.

Dylan, blue tops were all the go back in the day,........I'm gettin old lol.

Charlescrown, I've got most of the crank trigger and dizzy done, i machined the outer case of the dizzy and found a old small dc electric motor end cap that fitted over the dizzy nicely.
The dizzy now is only there to drive the oil pump.



I've only got exhaust a bit of the wiring to tidy up and fuel system to finish off

[MAGP]

Don't discount the blue tops, they are OEM fitment on HSV V8 350 Strokers and can comfortably run 300 HP with plenty of room to spare.
If you are running 4 with boost you should be able to get close to 200 HP out of them which is far better than I'd have thought any Toyota K motor would do before self destructing.